{"id":99817,"date":"2024-04-25T11:11:06","date_gmt":"2024-04-25T15:11:06","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/editionap.ca\/?p=99817"},"modified":"2026-02-17T20:52:09","modified_gmt":"2026-02-17T19:52:09","slug":"a-pad-thai-oasis-in-a-rockland-filled-with-pizza","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/visionrockland.ca\/en\/affaires\/a-pad-thai-oasis-in-a-rockland-filled-with-pizza\/","title":{"rendered":"A pad Thai oasis in a Rockland filled with pizza"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><span data-contrast=\"none\">It perhaps speaks to a hunger for a plate of hot, seasoned noodles in a sea of pizza restaurants in the city: when Vijittra Thai opened seven months ago, they were overwhelmed on their first day, ran out of food and had to close mid-afternoon.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"none\">That according to co-owner Mario Gendron, who opened the restaurant last fall with his partner Vijittra Sanpanlam, who does the cooking.\u00a0\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"none\">\u201cThe very beginning was too much,\u201d Gendron reflects. \u201cAnd even now, we haven\u2019t sent out any menus, but each week more and more people find out that we are here.\u201d <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"none\">For my money, that bowl of nicely chewy southeast Asian noodles \u2013 possessed of a balance and juxtaposition of sweet, salty, bitter and sour \u2013 is generally often a point of perfection that makes the cooking of the Indochina Peninsula among the best in the world. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"none\">Every city needs a Thai restaurant, even if Vijittra Thai is for take-out and delivery only at this point.\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"none\">The business has plans to expand into the space next door in order to offer a bit of sit-down seating. The location on Laurier Street wasn\u2019t previously a restaurant, so Sanpanlam and Gendron now have some experience building out restaur<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">ant space.\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"none\">Step into the small front-of-house area with the POS counter and overhead is a colourful digital menu board highlighting appetizers \u2013 including the popular Asian-American crab Rangoon, a dumpling of wonton wrapper packed with cream cheese \u2013 and two classic Thai soups, tom yum and tom kha. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"none\">The bulk of the Vijittra Thai menu is stir-fried rices and noodles, from spicy pad kee mao (often described as \u201cdrunken noodles\u201d but in which no alcohol is used), to cashew chicken and pineapple-fried rice. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"none\">There are also two of the requisite curry dishes \u2013 green and red \u2013 with coconut milk, vegetables, bamboo shoots and green beans. The palette of the colourful curry family might be said, speaking generally, to be like a traffic light: green is often fairly mild and red the hottest with yellow being a caution somewhere in between. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"none\">The red and green curries are also available among Vijittra\u2019s nine lunch specials (11 a.m. \u2013 2 p.m.), the majority of which offer choices of tofu, chicken, beef and shrimp. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"none\">It is, however, pad Thai, which most often stands out on a Thai menu. Like many cuisines, the dishes of the Indochina Peninsula \u2013 Myanmar, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam, Malaysia \u2013 vary from region to region, household to household and from cook to cook.\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"none\">Sanpanlam, like many of those cooks including several I have met over the years, learned her craft at the elbow of mother and grandmother starting as a teenager: it\u2019s family-style cooking, and family-style cooks cook what they know. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"none\">Her mother, in fact, still cooks food at a traditional roadside stand in Thailand that brings money into the household; travellers to the Peninsula will tell you those roadside stalls dish out some of the best food you can find.\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"none\">Located on Laurier Street, and not much bigger than a food stall, Vijittra Thai prepares Sanpanlam\u2019s version of the famous rice noodle dish with a pad Thai sauce of tamarind juice and sugar that get mixed into a paste. That is stir-fried dish with a choice of protein, egg, mung-bean sprouts, green onion, fish sauce and a usual garnish of lime and crushed peanuts.\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"none\">The dish is seasoned but not spicy. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"none\">\u201cThese are simple ingredients like you would cook at home,\u201d says Sanpanlam. \u201cIt\u2019s a comfort food.\u201d <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"none\">The distinguishing feature elevating pad Thai as a noodle dish of the highest order is the sweet-sour tamarind sauce, derived from the fibrous pulp that envelops the seeds of a bean tree native to Africa and Madagascar.\u00a0<\/span><span data-ccp-props=\"{&quot;134245417&quot;:true,&quot;201341983&quot;:2,&quot;335551550&quot;:6,&quot;335551620&quot;:6,&quot;335559731&quot;:240,&quot;335559738&quot;:0,&quot;335559739&quot;:0,&quot;335559740&quot;:240}\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"none\">While the dish certainly has long-standing home-based recipes, its origin has been mythologized and theories abound: its Chinese influence, rice shortages and government initiatives (when Thailand was called Siam) to modernize the country and culture that included essentially decreeing pad Thai to be the \u201cnational dish\u201d in the 1930s. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"none\">According to The Wall Street Journal, the Thai government\u2019s gastro-diplomacy initiative \u2014 the \u201cGlobal Thai Restaurant Company\u201d \u2014 aimed at creating thousands of Thai restaurants worldwide. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"none\">For the most part, it seems like they were successful: as I said, every city needs to have a Thai restaurant. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"none\">But that\u2019s the larger picture, though. In town here, and on the ground, Sanpanlam says the reception of Vijittra Thai \u2013 and the presentation of Thai food to this community \u2013 has been positive. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"none\">\u201cI was scared when we opened that people would not like my food, but they like it. One customer came in to pick up their food and called back right away,\u201d she says. \u201cI thought they were going to complain, but they wanted to say they loved Thai food. It\u2019s a blessing.\u201d <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"none\">Note: Before visiting, check with the venue regarding dish availability and hours of opening.\u00a0<\/span><span data-ccp-props=\"{&quot;134245417&quot;:true,&quot;201341983&quot;:2,&quot;335551550&quot;:6,&quot;335551620&quot;:6,&quot;335559731&quot;:240,&quot;335559738&quot;:0,&quot;335559739&quot;:0,&quot;335559740&quot;:240}\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><em>Food writer Andrew Coppolino lives in Rockland. He is the author of \u201cFarm to Table\u201d and co-author of \u201cCooking with Shakespeare.\u201d Follow him on Instagram @andrewcoppolino.\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>It perhaps speaks to a hunger for a plate of hot, seasoned noodles in a sea of pizza restaurants in the city: when Vijittra Thai opened seven months ago, they were overwhelmed on their first day, ran out of food and had to close mid-afternoon.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 That according to co-owner Mario Gendron, who opened the restaurant [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":20,"featured_media":99818,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[39],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-99817","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-affaires"],"acf":[],"featured_media_global":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.4 - 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